Backhand winner
First ascent of the south face of Sani Pakkush (6,953 m, Pakistan)
Symon Welfringer & Pierrick Fine
SANI PAKKUSH – KARAKORAM – 2020
Symon Welfringer and Pierrick Fine , members of the Samaya Family, talk about their latest achievement in Pakistan, rewarded with the Piolets d'Or 2021. autumn and finally the chosen few who will have had this chance. Indeed, of the three known expeditions of 2020, only two have reached the coveted summit: the Sani Pakkush by Symon Welfringer and Pierrick Fine and the K6 by Jeffrey and Priti Wright with also the opening of a new line. These only two successful expeditions were equipped by Samaya.
Samaya was in a hurry to find out more…
How did you manage to go on an expedition this year?
Symon Welfringer (SW): In the fall, I always try to go on an expedition: it's the tradition. This time of the year is dedicated to the great ascents in the Himalayas. This season, we wanted to go to Nepal, but the pandemic decided otherwise. We had to change our plans urgently two weeks before our departure. The choice was limited. The only country that opened its doors to us was Pakistan. Once the destination was validated, we had to find a new objective in a very short time. We were looking for a summit around 7,000 meters to complete our high altitude experience. With the help of "Fatmap" and "Google Earth", our gaze finally landed on the Sani Pakkush, which culminates at 6,953 meters. A summit which had only been reached once by a German roped party in 1991 and whose immense south face was still untouched. This year, we were only three international expeditions in the Himalayas. In addition to COVID-19, this is also due to the fact that in autumn in the Karakoram the weather is not nearly as stable as in Nepal. As for the cold and winter, they can come sooner than expected. Even more than usual, we started this adventure with a lot of uncertainties!
Pierrick Fine (PF): Basically, Symon and I were in two separate French teams, with of course different climbing objectives. These two teams wanted to go to the Himalayas. Nepal finally closed its doors and forced us to review our copy. We all contacted each other, to try to bounce back, reform new ropes and try to leave. Finally, some of our companions did not want to take the risk of a possible failure linked to random Pakistani weather in the fall. The others were overtaken by family contingencies. We finally found ourselves with Symon, to be the only two who wanted to try a "poker gamble"!
Was your choice the right one?
SW: By choosing the Batura massif, we were looking for a form of isolation. When we arrived, luckily, the snow and mixed conditions on the south face were quite good. We had spotted several logical lines beforehand, but observing the “movements” of the mountain, we quickly dropped the option of the central spur. Not completely protected from the falling seracs, it would have taken us too much time anyway. We have therefore focused on a line that can be climbed in alpine style, to be climbed in "one push", in order to make the most of the short weather slots offered by Pakistan. We were also looking for a line that would be protected from objective risks (avalanches and falling ice). As soon as possible, we devoted ourselves to acclimatization. Although effective, it could not be optimal because the summits accessible around our base camp culminated only at 5,400 meters maximum. At the first favorable weather window, we headed for the face.
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PF: Before leaving, we had imagined plans A, but also B, C and even D. For me, agility is part of the practice of mountaineering: this adaptation is inherent in the mountains and it is who sets the rules. The choice of our line was made according to safety and the thermometer. Indeed, as soon as we arrived at the base camp, it was already cold. Finally, the mountain conditions but also the weather were good. It's the second time that Symon has “amazed” me with his weather forecast. The first time, at the “Pic Sans Nom”, he had announced with his forecaster's “cap” that at 8 o'clock in the morning the wind would stop. Between 7 and 8 a.m., we went from storm to flat calm, all with disconcerting precision. For Pakistan, he had spotted before our departure the passage of a big depression, a kind of monsoon which augured a real window of good weather for the future. Again, it worked!
What is beautiful and a little scary with this type of successful expeditions is that in addition to wanting to start over, we are now tempted to go higher and increase the incline by a few degrees.
Symon Welfringer
How was the ascent?
SW: We left very early on the first day to avoid too much snow “mixing” on the lower slopes. Very quickly, we realized that the snow and ice conditions were excellent. We were in the right place, at the right time and with the right strategy. Our choice of progression equipment was also optimal, neither too much nor too little, to deal with the seven sometimes vertical technical lengths that awaited us. Very quickly, we gave up waking up too early without the sun. The temperature ranges were extreme, oscillating between freezing nights with -30°C on the thermometer and +20°C inside the tent in the middle of the afternoon. Without sun, we functioned in slow motion and without any efficiency. We therefore quickly revised the alarm clock upwards. Another problem we had to face was the bivouacs and their not always optimal locations. In this face of 2,500 meters, partly in snow, we expected more options. We enjoyed only one comfortable night out of the four. With the cold and the feet in the void, some nights were not very restorative. But even with just one pole, our assault tent fully served its purpose. We had to wait for the last bivouac at 6,400 meters to enjoy some comfort. The next day, after a decent night, we made the choice to leave in light and fast mode towards the summit. Slowed down by the deep snow and the altitude, we had to dig deep within ourselves to balance ourselves on the crest of our dreams. At the top we found what we came for, a mix of emotion and frosty tears.
PF: For me, there were four highlights. The first, rather frightening, is the huge “spindrift” that hit us on the first pitch. From the first rays of the sun, the face was purged; at the heart of the corridor, we were exposed. This small avalanche ripped Symon's backpack and almost put a stop to the ascent. The second is the second bivouac in “survival” mode to which we had to adapt. Symon was sitting on a stone, his feet in the air, with the tent as a makeshift shelter. As for me, I managed in hammock mode, under the stars and supported only by a small bundle of "homemade" straps. This night cost us dearly in terms of fatigue and cold. The next day, after barely two hours of climbing, we stopped to rest and warm up. The third is a happy memory. I can still see Symon full of enthusiasm in an incredible length of ice that he climbed in the lead during the second day of ascent. His enthusiasm was truly infectious. In fourth and last, I will keep in mind for a long time the image of these huge walls of snow mushrooms through which we had to sneak on the summit ridge. This fantastic ride in the form of a roller coaster, combined with a breathtaking view of the two valleys that our ridge separated, remains among the striking memories of our journey.
What roles did your two base camp and assault tents respectively play during this expedition?
SW: At base camp, we were faced with bad weather with significant amounts of snow. The Samaya BASECAMP from the 8K range has done its job perfectly. Quite honestly, I don't have much to say about this 3-4 person tent which impressed us with its technical qualities and finishes. In my opinion, no model and no brand could compete with it. As a couple and with an apse each, we were more than comfortable. The Samaya ASSAUT2 from the ULTRA range played an important role. This fully Dyneema® tent was our only shelter between base camp and the summit. We and Pierrick were also impressed with this tent with almost no condensation and a high quality design. Despite partial pitching with a single pole on some bivouacs, stress on the anchor points and abrasion from the rocks on the ground, the tent held up really well. At less than a kilogram, it's just incredible.
PF: In Samaya BASECAMP, we have always been dry. The many accessories and storage sometimes made me think of a fitted bedroom, even if there, we had no wardrobe or chest of drawers! In the Samaya ASSAUT2 ULTRA , we almost always used the safety strap. Again, it seems to me that even at an altitude of 8,000 meters I will not do without accessorizing and wide side pockets.
When are we leaving? I am well motivated to go see a little higher, beyond 7,000 meters. But before climbing to these altitudes on technical faces, I would go and test my abilities in higher but also easier terrain, why not around 8,000 meters.
Pierrick Fine
The birth of a new rope?
SW: I already knew Pierrick before leaving. We had the chance to share an expedition to Pakistan two years ago with Antoine Rolle and Aurélien Vaissière. Pierrick has a “big engine” and exceptional endurance. On the summit ridge, faced with the altitude, it was he who traced against the wind in the fresh snow. Throughout the climb, he knew he could count on my unfailing motivation and my technical qualities as a climber, whatever the terrain. Our team works very well because we are complementary and share the same vision. I hope this success is only the beginning of a long series.
PF: Symon's first quality is his tenacity, his will. Whether climbing or at altitude, he doesn't let go. Its weather analyzes are also a real plus in our strategic decisions. With a few words of encouragement, he has the ability to go from mode off to mode on with a great capacity for remobilization. For my part, I'm going to be more constant, maybe last longer over time, but when there's no more battery, the machine stops.
